The Designer, Issue #1, May 1916

Fashion illustrations and editorial content from the U.S. women's and fashion magazine The Designer, Vol. 44, No. 1, for May 1916. Published by the Standard Fashion Company, New York City, N.Y., U.S.A.

Total pages: 64 (completely online)

Scan size: 28.0 x 40.5 cm / 11.02 x 15.95 in

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64 Pages

Cover or front page of the U.S. women's and fashion magazine The Designer, Vol. 44, No. 1, from May 1916. Published by Standard Fashion Company, New York City, N.Y., U.S.A. 10 Cents a Copy. 75 Cents a Year. Cover illustration/title drawing: Philip Boileau (1863-1917).

Advertising: Full page color ad, "Don't Say Underwear – Say Munsingwear. BEYOND COMPARE MUNSING WEAR. PERFECT FITTING MUNSINGWEAR UNION SUITS. Munsing Union Suits are made in 82 different knitted fabrics of fine quality and are offered in every required style and size for men, women and children. Because of the perfect way in which they fit and cover the form and their unusual durability. They have become the most popular knit union suits in the world. More than 9.000.000 perfect fitting MUNSINGWEAR garments will be required in 1916 to supply the demand from satisfied users. For samples of fabrics—style illustrations and names of MUNSINGWEAR dealers in your town, address the NORTHWESTERN KNITTING CO., MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA."

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THE DESIGNER. JAMES EATON TOWER, Managing Editor. PUBLISHED MONTHLY BY STANDARD FASHION CO. President JOHN T. SCANLON. Secretary and Treasurer CHARLES E. STRETCH. 12 Vandam Street, New York, N. Y. MAY, 1916. CONTENTS. Copyright, 1916, by the Standard Fashion Company in the United States and Great Britain. Cover Design… Philip Boileau. A Moving Subject, Jean Furniss, This… 1. Editorially Speaking… 3. Many Are the Joys of Farm Life, Ida M. Tarbell… 5. The Foster-Mother, Virginia Woods Mackall… 6. A Loving Woman's Fate… 6. Make the Hand a Means of Grace, Elsie de Festetics… 7. Here in New York, Marta Van Corlear… 8. Eyes of the Sky, Part II, Allen Wilkes and Tristram Tupper… 9. How Women's Clubs Are Showing the Way, Helen M. Winslow… 10. The Little Perkins Boy, Reinette Lovewell… 11. A Garden for the Children's Own, Carolyn S. Bailey… 12. Woman at the Steering-Wheel… 13. Happy Hours at the Movies… 14. Your Page, Girls and Boys… 15. Fountains of Peril, Judson D. Stuart… 16. Decorated Cottage Furniture… 19. May Breakfast, Helena Judson… 20. Quickly Made Health Breads, Eleanor Judd… 21. Those Bungalow Beds, Donald Shumway Rockwell… 23. The Cutest Things for Vacation Gifts… 23. "Spring Fever" in School-Children, E. L. Coolidge, M. D. … 24. While Awaiting Fresh Fruits, Mary Allen… 25. Letters from "Designer" Readers… 25. Yours for Health… 27. Our Bureau of Laughter… 27. FASHIONS. May Fashions, Anne Harrison Black… 41. Barrel Skirts, Erstwhile Fardingales… 42. Paris Now Approves "La Jupe Tonneau"… 45. All Are So Smartly Tailored… 46. The New Beehive Silhouette… 47. May Brings New Modes in Blouses… 48. Fresh New Frocks for May Parties… 49. Fashion's Favorites… 52. Very Dainty Maidens… 53. Her Summer Clothes… 54. His Vacation Days… 55. These Suggest Style and Ease… 56. These Add Charm to Surf Bathing… 57. Attractive Crochet Designs… 58. New Embroidery Designs… 59. The Silhouette's the Thing, Katharine Clinton… 60. Subscriptions are received by all Standard Fashion Agents, Newsdealers and Booksellers, or may be sent direct to the Publishers. ON SUBSCRIPTION: Seventy-five cents per year in the United States, Alaska, Cuba, Porto Rico, Mexico, Hawaii, Philippines, Panama, Guam, Tutuila, and city of Shanghai. In Canada, $1.00 per year. All other countries, $1.25 per year. 10 cents a copy. When mailing the last magazine due on your subscription, we enclose an order-blank as a reminder that your subscription has expired and for your convenience in renewing. If you wish to keep your files complete, fill out and return immediately with the subscription price. The editor assumes no risk for manuscripts and drawings submitted to this magazine, but he will use all due care while they are in his hands. BRANCHES: Chicago, Ill., 205 W. Monroe St.; San Francisco, Cal., 609 Mission St.; Boston, Mass., 105 Chaunty St.; St. Louis, Mo., 1629 Washington Ave.; Atlanta, Ga., 79-89 Marietta St.; Toronto, Canada, 472 Wellington St., West; Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, Woods Western Building, Corner Market and Louise Sts. ENTERED AS SECOND-CLASS MATTER, JULY 6, 1898, AT THE POST-OFFICE AT NEW YORK, N. Y., UNDER THE ACT OF MARCH 3, 1879. Article: Furniss, Jean, A Moving Subject, This. With a Painful Interest for Migratory Mortals (by Jean Furniss, unknown author/biographical data unknown). The article is accompanied by three illustrations. The two captions read "My aunt was positive that the movers had taken the rug" and "Things are gotten together and packed as if swept by a Titan's broom." Illustrations/drawings: Ruth Clements Farrell (?-1928). OUR GUARANTEE — We absolutely guarantee the reliability of every advertiser in THE DESIGNER. If any reader incurs a loss through misrepresentation of goods in any advertisement in THE DESIGNER, we guarantee that this loss will be refunded. If the advertiser does not make it good, we will. JOHN T. SCANLON. President, Standard Fashion Company. [Page] 1

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Advertising: Full page part-color ad, "Eventually WASHBURN-CROSBY'S GOLD MEDAL FLOUR. Why Not Now? WASHBURN-CROSBY'S GOLD MEDAL FLOUR. This is the Genuine WASHBURN-CROSBY CO'S GOLD MEDAL FLOUR. Do not be misled by other brands bearing somewhat similar names, or by parties claiming to have our Gold Medal Flour under their own brand. Every barrel or sack of the Genuine Washburn-Crosby Co's Gold Medal Flour bears our firm name in full. DAILY CAPACITY 50,000 BARRELS. WASHBURN-CROSBY CO. GENERAL OFFICES, MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. FOR SALE EVERYWHERE." [Page] 2

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Article (Editorially Speaking). N. N., Editorially Speaking. The caption of the illustration at top reads "A MOTHER'S DAY SURPRISE—A VISIT FROM THE 'CHILDREN.'" Illustration/drawing: Katherine Southwick (Katherine Southwick Keeler, 1887-?). THE DESIGNER, MAY, 1916—Page 3

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Advertising: Full page ad, "The First Shortcake of the Season—Make It a Triumph Like This. YOUR family is eagerly waiting for the first strawberry shortcake of the season. From youngest to oldest they all expect a real treat. Don't disappoint them. Get the biggest, sweetest, most luscious berries you can buy; then make the crust with Crisco so you can be sure that it is the flakiest, lightest, tastiest possible. A Crisco shortcake is good through and through. The crust, no less than the berries, makes it a real delicacy. CRISCO For Frying—For Shortening—For Cake Making. All baking is improved by using Crisco. It is a real pleasure to work with this purely vegetable shortening so surely does it aid in the production of appetizing, tasteful, wholesome foods. Crisco is given exclusive preference in millions of homes because of its unfailing purity and uniformity. Strawberry Shortcake. How to Make the Wholesome and Appetizing Crisco Kind. 3 cupfuls flour, ½ teaspoonful salt, 5 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 8 tablespoonfuls Crisco, 1 egg, 1 cupful milk, 1½ pints berries, 1 cupful whipped cream [Use level measurements]. Sift flour, salt, baking powder and sugar together. Cut in the Crisco using two knives. Add well beaten egg, then the milk a little at a time and mix with a knife. Divide in two lots—toss on floured board, pat out gently to ½ inch in thickness and bake on two well Criscoed pans in hot oven about ten minutes. Cool, then pile berries on half, put on other half and cover with whipped cream and garnish with whole berries. Recipes for other shortcakes and many dainty dishes will be found among the 615 of Marion Harris Neil's selection in 'A Calendar of Dinners'. This handsome, cloth-bound, illustrated, gold-stamped book deserves a place in every house-keeper's library. It also contains 365 dinner menus and the interesting Story of Crisco. Write for it, addressing Dept. B-5, The Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, enclosing five 2-cent stamps. A paper-bound edition, without the 'Calendar of Dinners' but with 250 recipes is free." [Page] 4

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Cover of the U.S. women's and fashion magazine The Designer, Vol. 44, No. 1, from May 1916. Article: Tarbell, Ida M., Many Are the Joys of Farm Life. A Famous Woman Who Owns a Farm Describes Some of Them (by Ida Minerva Tarbell, 1857-1944). Author of "The Business of Being a Woman," "A History of Standard Oil," etc. A small photographic picture of the author Miss Tarbell is reproduced on the page. The caption reads "Miss Tarbell. Decorations by Kerr Eby." Illustrations/drawings: Kerr Eby (1889-1946). [Page] 5

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Article: Woods Mackall, Virginia, The Foster-Mother (by Virginia Woods Mackall, biographical data unknown); N. N., A Loving Woman's Fate. Was It Owing Entirely to Cruel, Meddlesome Neighbors? (by the Victim). The teaser of the second article reads "As direct and poignant as life itself is this outpouring of a woman's sorrow, because it is a recital of facts. Are there others who have passed through, or are passing through, similar experiences? If so, have they counsel and comfort which they will offer?" Illustration/drawing: Lucile Patterson (Lucille Patterson Marsh, 1890-1978). THE DESIGNER, MAY, 1916—Page 6

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Article: Festetics, Elsie de, Make the Hand a Means of Grace. How Certain Beautiful Women Achieve This (by Elsie de Festetics, unknown author). The article is accompanied by ten photographic images. The captions read "Violet Heming [English stage and screen actress, 1895-1981, note by M. K.] is graceful even drinking tea," "More expressive than words is this gesture of Eleanor Painter [American opera singer Eleanor Painter Strong, 1885-1947]," "Pouring tea is an art, as Miss Heming shows," "Jane Cowl's [American film and stage actress, 1883-1950] beautiful hands," "Relaxation expressed by hands," "Strength in Mrs. Lewis's hand," "Personality in Miss Painter's hands," "Jane Cowl's perfect arms and hands" and "Beauty in gloved hands." Photos: Underwood & Underwood (Elmer Underwood, 1859-1947, and Bert Elias Underwood, 1862-1943); White Studio; Clinedinst, Washington, D. C. (Barnett McFee Clinedinst, 1862-1953); Studio Joel Feder, New York City (biographical data unknown); Pach Bros. (Gustavus Pach, 1848-1904, Gotthelf Pach, 1852-1925, and Morris Pach, 1837–1914). THE DESIGNER, MAY, 1916—Page 7

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Article: Corlear, Marta van, Here in New York (by Marta van Corlear, unknown author). The article is accompanied by five illustrations. All captions read "Sister Susie arrives," "A Broadway hotel is featuring apple pie," "The Metropolitan Tower and Dr. Parkhurst's Church, from Madison Square," "Tea-rooms do not give large money's worth" and "The haughty lady of the limousine." Illustrations/drawings: Herman Drucklieb (Herman Lui Drucklieb, 1888-1932) and C. Bertram Hartman (1882-1960). THE DESIGNER, MAY, 1916—Page 8